THE CRAFTY PINT – STOCKADE BREW CO
Stockade occupies a unique space in the Australian craft beer scene. To understand it you need to go back a few years to the time of Australian Independent Brewers (AIB). AIB was based in Smeaton Grange, around 60 kilometres southwest of Sydney, and was a large contract brewer before it fell into receivership and was eventually purchased in 2012 by the Szpitalak family. They renamed the business BrewPack and it has gone on to become one of the country’s busiest contract brewing facilities; dozens of small Aussie brewers now call on BrewPack to produce beer on their behalf, whether to supplement demand they’re unable to meet at their own breweries or, in other cases, acting as the primary producer for a brand. Whether you know it or not, BrewPack produces a considerable number of the craft beer brands you see regularly in bottleshops and bars across the country. But rather than simply brew beer for others, the Szpitalaks – at least, three of the four brothers who are active in daily life at the brewery – decided to add another string to their bow by launching their own range of beers. This was originally done under the Macarthur Grange Brewery name which, although not pushed too widely, claimed some significant successes with its pale ale and IPA both picking up gold medals at the Sydney Royal Beer Show. But in the latter stages of 2015 the Macarthur range was quietly retired to make way for what has become Stockade Brew Co. It’s a more adventurous brand than Macarthur in just about every way. Out went more traditional labels, replaced with striking works of graphic art. The core range of beers sticks with the tried and true formula used by many breweries – namely a lager, mid strength, pale ale and IPA, plus the more recent addition of an XPA – but the limited releases sent them hurtling into the heart of beer geek country and has won them attention in all quarters.
Their very first seasonal was a peach, salt and coriander infused gose and things have only escalated from there, from smoked jalapeño porter to juniper infused witbier to two year old whisky barrel-aged imperial stout. Along the way they’ve carved out some impressive accolades, racking up medals at many of Australia’s major beer shows, winning the title of “World’s Best Imperial Stout” at the UK-based World Beer Awards in 2015 and beating out more than a hundred other brewers to take out the coveted People’s Choice award at the 2017 GABS festival for The Mountie, their Maple Imperial Stout. In 2018, Stockade took up residence under the umbrella of a new company, Tribe Breweries, which has been set up as part of an ambitious plan that includes a brewing and packaging facility in Goulburn designed to rival that of the largest independent breweries in the Southern Hemisphere, and includes Mornington Peninsula Brewery and Wilde as fellow beer brands.
It’s still a brewery where the beers benefit from things many small brewers would look upon with envy. Along with substantial capacity and a packaging line which was significantly upgraded after the Szpitalaks took over – including the addition of a monstrously large dry hopper to better meet the demands of modern tastes (read: more hops) – they also have the luxury of a dedicated lab tasked with constantly monitoring and testing the quality of the beer at each point in the brewing process. As calls for increased quality and consistency in craft beer become louder, Stockade is already well down the road.
Having a foot in several camps – the production capability of a large brewer, the ability to behave like a small brewer and working closely with a lot of other brewers and retailers – put Stockade in a unique position and gave it a sound platform to spread its name far and wide. And they certainly wasted no time doing that with an increasing amount of beer exported to southeast Asia, often including collaborations with brewers and bars in those countries. As all the bits of the puzzle came together over the course of a few years, the one piece that was notably missing was a home that truly represented the brand. They always had the Smeaton Grange brewery, but being primarily a production facility it was never intended as a place where people could come to sit and enjoy a beer – not to mention its distance from the epicentre of Sydney’s beer scene, the Inner West. So you could argue that it was in 2018 that Stockade revealed its true face to the public when they rolled up the doors to a bar and brewery in Marrickville, the Stockade Barrel Room.
It’s a slick venue, as impressive for the indifferent beer drinker to walk into as it is for the enthusiast keen to sniff out whatever’s inside the towers of barrels piled up along the walls. They have a small brewery in here to keep those barrels filled while also ensuring the bar is always pouring something exclusive to the venue. The bar serves up the remainder of Stockade’s catalogue (not to mention keeping a well-stocked fridge for takeaways) and makes a point of concocting beer-based cocktails; try a Galaxy & Tonic or Mosaic Sour for a different kind of hop hit.
As of mid-2019, you’ll find the venue showcasing a new-look lineup too. Some of the original core beers were dropped in the reshuffle, other favourites got a refresh, and some beers appeared too. Having begun brewing life as an entity that operated almost entirely behind the scenes, Stockade has undergone an almost total transformation, hurtling into the consciousness of drinkers and becoming one of the most multifaceted of the country’s new crop of brewers.
TIME OUT'S VISIT TO THE BARREL ROOM
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